/* Turkey 2021 — travel story. Same type, palette and objects as the main site (css/v2.css):
   Inter Tight + JetBrains Mono, cream / ink / orange, dark capsule header, 3D keycaps.
   Postcard photos, handwritten notes and the drawn maps are the story's own. */
:root {
  --cream: #EFECE6;
  --cream-2: #E5E1D9;
  --paper: #F8F6F2;
  --ink: #121212;
  --ink-2: #1C1C1C;
  --ink-soft: #3B3935;
  --muted: #77736C;
  --line: rgba(18, 18, 18, .12);
  --d-line: rgba(255, 255, 255, .12);
  --d-muted: #8E8B86;
  --orange: #FF5A1F;
  --orange-deep: #D9430F;
  --land: #E3DED4;
  --land-tr: #D6CEC0;
  --sans: "Inter Tight", system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --mono: "JetBrains Mono", ui-monospace, Menlo, monospace;
  --hand: "Caveat", "Segoe Print", cursive;
  --gut: clamp(16px, 3.4vw, 40px);
  --bar: 76px;
  --r: 24px;
  --ease: cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .1, 1);
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; scroll-padding-top: calc(var(--bar) + 16px); }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--cream); color: var(--ink); font: 400 18px/1.6 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.01em; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; overflow-x: hidden; }
img { display: block; max-width: 100%; height: auto; }
a { color: inherit; }
h1, h2, h3, p, ul, figure { margin: 0; }
ul { padding: 0; list-style: none; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--orange); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 6px; }
.mono, .kicker, figcaption, .stats, .map-meta { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: .04em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.o { color: var(--orange); }

/* ---------- header + dock, like the main site ----------
   top: back-to-site capsule (left) and "All chapters" (right); bottom: floating dock with the chapters */
.bar { position: sticky; top: 12px; z-index: 50; height: 52px; margin: 12px var(--gut) 0; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; pointer-events: none; }
.bar > *, .dock { pointer-events: auto; }
.bar-home, .dock { color: #fff; background: rgba(16, 16, 19, .78); backdrop-filter: blur(20px) saturate(1.5); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(20px) saturate(1.5); border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .12); box-shadow: 0 16px 44px rgba(0, 0, 0, .28); }
.bar-home { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; height: 52px; padding: 5px 18px 5px 5px; border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; transition: background .2s; }
.bar-home:hover { background: rgba(16, 16, 19, .92); }
.bar-ava { width: 40px; height: 40px; border-radius: 50%; overflow: hidden; background: #B9360F; box-shadow: 0 0 0 1.5px #7C2007; position: relative; flex: none; }
.bar-ava img { position: absolute; width: 104%; height: 104%; left: 11%; top: 0; max-width: none; object-fit: cover; }
.bar-home-t { display: flex; flex-direction: column; line-height: 1.15; }
.bar-home-t b { font-weight: 600; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -.02em; }
.bar-home-t small { font: 400 11px var(--mono); color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .6); letter-spacing: .02em; }
.bar-home:hover small { color: var(--orange); }
.bar-all { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; height: 52px; padding: 0 22px; border-radius: 999px; background: #fff; color: var(--ink); font: 600 15px var(--sans); text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; box-shadow: 0 12px 30px -12px rgba(0, 0, 0, .35); transition: background .2s, color .2s; }
.bar-all:hover { background: var(--orange); color: #fff; }

.dock { position: fixed; z-index: 50; left: 50%; bottom: 14px; transform: translateX(-50%); max-width: calc(100% - 24px); padding: 5px; border-radius: 999px; }
.bar-nav { display: flex; gap: 2px; overflow-x: auto; scrollbar-width: none; scroll-behavior: smooth; font: 500 11px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .04em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.bar-nav::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
.bar-nav a, .bar-nav span { padding: 12px 14px; border-radius: 999px; white-space: nowrap; text-decoration: none; color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .72); transition: background .2s, color .2s; }
.bar-nav span { color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .3); }
.bar-nav a:hover { color: #fff; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); }
.bar-nav a[aria-current] { color: #fff; background: var(--orange); }
body { padding-bottom: 76px; } /* room for the dock under the footer */
@media (max-width: 760px) {
  .bar { margin: 10px 12px 0; }
  .bar-home { padding-right: 5px; }
  .bar-home-t { display: none; }
  .bar-all { padding: 0 18px; font-size: 14px; }
  /* phones: let the tabs fade out at the edges so it's clear they scroll */
  .bar-nav { -webkit-mask-image: linear-gradient(90deg, transparent, #000 18px, #000 calc(100% - 18px), transparent); mask-image: linear-gradient(90deg, transparent, #000 18px, #000 calc(100% - 18px), transparent); }
}

/* ---------- chapter head ---------- */
.ch-hd { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.2fr 1fr; gap: 32px 64px; align-items: end; padding: clamp(48px, 7vw, 104px) var(--gut) 48px; max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.kicker { color: var(--orange); }
.kicker .muted { color: var(--muted); margin-left: 12px; }
.ch-title { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(56px, 9.5vw, 140px); line-height: .9; letter-spacing: -.055em; margin-top: 18px; }
.ch-days li + li { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.ch-days a { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 96px 1fr auto; gap: 16px; align-items: baseline; padding: 14px 0; text-decoration: none; font-size: 20px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: -.02em; }
.ch-days a:hover { color: var(--orange); }
.ch-days .mono { color: var(--orange); }
.ch-days .arr { color: var(--muted); font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 14px; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .ch-hd { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

/* dark variant: the chapter opens on ink, with its photo as a postcard */
.ch-hd--dark { max-width: none; margin-top: -64px; padding: calc(var(--bar) + 56px) max(var(--gut), calc((100vw - 1400px) / 2 + var(--gut))) clamp(56px, 7vw, 96px); background: var(--ink); color: #fff; border: 0; grid-template-columns: 1.15fr .85fr; align-items: center; }
.ch-hd--dark .kicker .muted { color: var(--d-muted); }
.ch-hd--dark .ch-days { margin-top: 40px; max-width: 560px; }
.ch-hd--dark .ch-days li + li { border-color: var(--d-line); }
.ch-hd--dark .ch-days .arr { color: var(--d-muted); }
.ch-hd--dark .ph { justify-self: end; }
.ch-hd--dark .ph.port { --cap: 360px; }
.ch-hd--dark .ph { --vh: calc(100vh - 260px); } /* the header postcard sits under the top bar */
.hub .ch-title { font-size: clamp(60px, 10vw, 156px); }
.hub .lede { max-width: 34ch; margin-top: 28px; color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .86); }
.band { padding-top: 28px; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .ch-hd--dark { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } .ch-hd--dark .ph { justify-self: start; --cap: 100%; } }

/* ---------- leg = sticky map + scrolling story ---------- */
.leg { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 5fr) minmax(0, 6fr); gap: 0 clamp(32px, 5vw, 80px); max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gut); }
.leg + .leg { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.map { position: sticky; top: calc(var(--bar) + 16px); height: calc(100vh - var(--bar) - 112px); margin: 48px 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 10px; padding: 14px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); }
.map svg { flex: 1; min-height: 0; width: 100%; border-radius: 14px; }
.map-meta { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; color: var(--muted); padding: 0 4px; }
.map-meta b { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 500; }
.story { padding: 48px 0 120px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 56px; min-width: 0; }
@media (max-width: 1000px) {
  .leg { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .map { position: relative; top: 0; height: min(78vh, 620px); margin: 32px 0 0; padding: 10px; }
  .story { padding-top: 32px; }
}

/* map drawing */
.map .land { fill: var(--land); stroke: #CFC8BA; stroke-width: .6; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.map .land.tr { fill: var(--land-tr); }
.map .ghost { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-opacity: .28; stroke-width: 1; stroke-dasharray: 2 3; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.map .rt { fill: none; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; } /* no non-scaling-stroke: it would rescale the dash reveal */
.map .rt-walk { stroke: var(--orange); stroke-width: 3; }
.map .rt-road { stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.6; }
.map .rt-fly { stroke: var(--ink-soft); stroke-width: 1.2; }
.map .head { fill: var(--orange); stroke: var(--paper); stroke-width: 2; }
.map .pin circle { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.4; transition: fill .3s; }
.map .pin.on circle { fill: var(--orange); stroke: var(--orange); }
.map text { font: 500 11px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .02em; fill: var(--ink); paint-order: stroke; stroke: var(--paper); stroke-width: 4px; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.map .area { fill: var(--muted); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: .3em; font-size: 10px; }
.map .sea { fill: #8C99A6; font: italic 500 13px var(--sans); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.legend { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px 18px; color: var(--muted); }
.legend i { display: inline-block; width: 18px; height: 3px; vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 6px; background: var(--orange); }
.legend .road { background: var(--ink); height: 2px; }
.legend .fly { background: var(--ink-soft); height: 1px; }

/* ---------- story blocks ---------- */
.day-hd { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px; padding-top: 8px; }
.day-no { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(60px, 7.6vw, 104px); line-height: .9; letter-spacing: -.055em; }
.day-no::after { content: ""; display: block; width: 36px; height: 4px; border-radius: 2px; background: var(--orange); margin-top: 18px; }
.fromto { font: 500 13px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.fromto i { font-style: normal; color: var(--orange); margin: 0 6px; }
.lede { font-size: clamp(21px, 2vw, 26px); line-height: 1.38; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: -.02em; max-width: 32ch; }
.blk { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px; max-width: 620px; }
.blk h3 { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(30px, 3.2vw, 44px); line-height: 1.02; letter-spacing: -.045em; }
.blk p { color: var(--ink-soft); }

.stats { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(140px, 1fr)); gap: 10px; max-width: 620px; }
.stats div { padding: 16px 18px 18px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 6px; color: var(--muted); background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 18px; }
.stats b { font: 600 28px/1.05 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.04em; color: var(--ink); text-transform: none; }

.note { font: 400 30px/1.12 var(--hand); color: var(--ink-soft); border-left: 3px solid var(--orange); padding: 2px 0 2px 16px; max-width: 440px; transform: rotate(-1.2deg); }

/* photos: printed frames */
/* one width rule for every card: its cap (--cap), the column, and the screen height via the photo's
   proportions (--ar, set by story.js) so a tall portrait never outgrows the viewport */
.ph { --cap: 560px; --vh: calc(100vh - 220px); --pad: 24px; width: 100%; max-width: min(var(--cap), 100%, calc(var(--vh) * var(--ar, 99) + var(--pad))); background: #fff; padding: 12px 12px 0; border-radius: 4px; box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, .08), 0 18px 36px -20px rgba(0, 0, 0, .4); }
.ph img { width: 100%; background: var(--land); border-radius: 2px; }
.ph figcaption { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; padding: 12px 2px 14px; color: var(--muted); }
.ph figcaption span:first-child { color: var(--ink); }
.ph.wide { --cap: 100%; }
.ph.tilt-l { transform: rotate(-1.4deg); }
.ph.tilt-r { transform: rotate(1.2deg); align-self: flex-end; }
.ph-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 20px; align-items: start; }
.ph-row .ph:nth-child(2) { margin-top: 48px; }
@media (max-width: 560px) {
  .story > .ph:not(.wide), .col > .ph:not(.wide) { width: 82%; } /* a lone portrait shouldn't fill the whole phone screen */
  .ph-row { gap: 12px; }
  .ph { padding: 7px 7px 0; --pad: 14px; --vh: calc(100vh - 200px); }
  .ph figcaption { flex-direction: column; gap: 2px; font-size: 10px; padding: 8px 0 10px; }
}

/* boarding pass */
.ticket { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto 1fr; gap: 8px 20px; align-items: end; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); padding: 22px 26px; max-width: 560px; position: relative; }
.ticket::before, .ticket::after { content: ""; position: absolute; top: 50%; width: 22px; height: 22px; margin-top: -11px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--cream); border: 1px solid var(--line); }
.ticket::before { left: -12px; clip-path: inset(0 0 0 50%); }
.ticket::after { right: -12px; clip-path: inset(0 50% 0 0); }
.ticket .t-k { font: 400 11px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }
.ticket .t-v { font: 600 40px/1 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.05em; }
.ticket .t-mid { font: 400 14px var(--mono); color: var(--orange); padding-bottom: 10px; }
.ticket .t-r { text-align: right; }
.ticket .t-foot { grid-column: 1 / -1; border-top: 1px dashed var(--line); padding-top: 12px; margin-top: 6px; font: 400 11px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- single column article (no map) ---------- */
.col { max-width: 760px; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(56px, 8vw, 112px) var(--gut); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 56px; }
.col .blk { max-width: none; }
.col > .ph:not(.wide) { --cap: 460px; }
.col > .ph.tilt-r { align-self: flex-end; }
.col .wide-out { margin: 0 calc(-1 * clamp(0px, 12vw, 200px)); }
@media (max-width: 900px) { .col .wide-out { margin: 0; } }

/* ---------- dark band: the main site's dark sections + keycaps ---------- */
.dark { background: var(--ink); color: #fff; }
.dark-in { max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(64px, 9vw, 128px) var(--gut); display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 40px 64px; align-items: center; }
.dark h2 { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(44px, 6.4vw, 96px); line-height: .92; letter-spacing: -.055em; }
.dark h2 em { font-style: normal; color: var(--orange); }
.dark .kicker { color: var(--d-muted); margin-bottom: 18px; }
.dark p { color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .7); max-width: 46ch; margin-top: 22px; }
.dark .gear { grid-column: 1 / -1; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(220px, 1fr)); gap: 1px; background: var(--d-line); border-top: 1px solid var(--d-line); }
.dark .gear div { background: var(--ink); padding: 22px 22px 6px 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 8px; }
.dark .gear .mono { color: var(--orange); }
.dark .gear b { font: 600 22px/1.15 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.03em; }
.dark .gear span:last-child { color: var(--d-muted); font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.5; }
.dark-in:has(> .illus) { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
@media (max-width: 900px) { .dark-in, .dark-in:has(> .illus) { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

.keys { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px; --k: clamp(48px, 6vw, 76px); }
.keys-row { display: flex; gap: 12px; }
.key {
  --kf1: #F7F5F1; --kf2: #D8D4CC; --ks: #A6A097; --kt1: #FFFFFF; --kt2: #ECE8E2; --kl: #1A1A1A;
  position: relative; display: inline-grid; place-items: center; flex: none;
  width: var(--k); height: var(--k); border-radius: calc(var(--k) * .17);
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, var(--kf1), var(--kf2));
  box-shadow: 0 calc(var(--k) * .09) 0 var(--ks), 0 calc(var(--k) * .22) calc(var(--k) * .3) rgba(0, 0, 0, .42);
  transition: transform .12s ease, box-shadow .12s ease;
}
.key::before {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: calc(var(--k) * .07) calc(var(--k) * .09) calc(var(--k) * .14);
  border-radius: calc(var(--k) * .12); background: linear-gradient(165deg, var(--kt1), var(--kt2));
  box-shadow: inset 0 1px 0 rgba(255, 255, 255, .65), 0 1px 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, .14);
}
.key > span { position: relative; transform: translateY(-.06em); font: 500 calc(var(--k) * .34)/1 var(--mono); color: var(--kl); }
.key.is-down { transform: translateY(calc(var(--k) * .07)); box-shadow: 0 calc(var(--k) * .02) 0 var(--ks), 0 calc(var(--k) * .08) calc(var(--k) * .14) rgba(0, 0, 0, .42); }
.key--o { --kf1: #FF7A45; --kf2: #E2470F; --ks: #9A2C05; --kt1: #FF8250; --kt2: #F2561A; --kl: #fff; }
.key--b { --kf1: #3A3A3A; --kf2: #1B1B1B; --ks: #050505; --kt1: #353535; --kt2: #222; --kl: #F2F2F2; }
.key--b::before { box-shadow: inset 0 1px 0 rgba(255, 255, 255, .12), 0 1px 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, .4); }

/* ---------- 3D relief scene: sticky canvas driven by scroll ---------- */
.scene { position: relative; height: 420vh; background: var(--ink); color: #fff; }
.scene-stick { position: sticky; top: 0; height: 100vh; overflow: hidden; }
.scene canvas { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; }
.scene-cap { position: absolute; left: var(--gut); bottom: calc(clamp(20px, 4vh, 48px) + 64px); max-width: min(520px, calc(100% - 2 * var(--gut))); }
.scene-cap > div { position: absolute; left: 0; bottom: 0; width: 100%; opacity: 0; transform: translateY(14px); transition: opacity .2s, transform .2s; }
.scene-cap > div.on { transition: opacity .4s var(--ease) .2s, transform .4s var(--ease) .2s; } /* the old caption leaves before the new one arrives */
.scene-cap > div.on { opacity: 1; transform: none; position: relative; }
.scene-cap .mono { color: var(--orange); }
.scene-cap h3 { font: 600 clamp(32px, 4.4vw, 60px)/.95 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.05em; margin: 10px 0 12px; }
.scene-cap p { color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .72); font-size: 17px; }
.scene-meta { position: absolute; top: calc(var(--bar) + 20px); left: var(--gut); right: var(--gut); display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; color: var(--d-muted); }
.scene-meta b { color: #fff; font-weight: 500; }
.scene-alt { position: absolute; right: var(--gut); bottom: calc(clamp(20px, 4vh, 48px) + 64px); text-align: right; }
.scene-alt b { display: block; font: 600 clamp(44px, 6vw, 88px)/.9 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.05em; color: #fff; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.scene-alt span { color: var(--d-muted); }
@media (max-width: 700px) {
  .scene-meta span:first-child { display: none; }
  .scene-alt { top: calc(var(--bar) + 52px); bottom: auto; right: auto; left: var(--gut); text-align: left; }
  .scene-alt b { font-size: 40px; }
}

/* ---------- chapter end ---------- */
.ch-end { max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 72px var(--gut) 96px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); text-align: center; display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; gap: 40px; }
.ch-end .tease { font: 600 clamp(44px, 7vw, 96px)/.95 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.055em; }
.pager { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 16px; width: 100%; text-align: left; }
.pager > a, .pager > span { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 6px; padding: 22px 24px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); text-decoration: none; font-size: 24px; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: -.035em; transition: background .25s, color .25s, transform .25s var(--ease); }
.pager a:hover { background: var(--ink); color: #fff; transform: translateY(-2px); }
.pager .mono { color: var(--orange); font-weight: 400; }
.pager .next { text-align: right; align-items: flex-end; }
.pager > span { color: #A9A49B; }
.top { text-decoration: none; }
.site-foot { padding: 28px var(--gut); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.site-foot a { text-decoration: none; }
.site-foot a:hover { color: var(--orange); }
@media (max-width: 640px) { .pager { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } .pager .next { text-align: left; align-items: flex-start; } }

/* ---------- hub ---------- */
.hub-hero { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.1fr 1fr; gap: 40px clamp(32px, 6vw, 96px); align-items: center; max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(48px, 7vw, 104px) var(--gut); }
.hub-hero .ch-title { font-size: clamp(60px, 10vw, 156px); }
.hub-hero .lede { max-width: 34ch; margin-top: 28px; }
.hub-hero .ph { max-width: 520px; justify-self: end; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .hub-hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } .hub-hero .ph { justify-self: start; } }
.band { padding: 8px 0 28px; }
.band .stats { max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gut); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(190px, 1fr)); }
.band .stats b { font-size: clamp(30px, 2.6vw, 40px); white-space: nowrap; }
.why { max-width: 760px; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(56px, 8vw, 120px) var(--gut); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 22px; }
.why h2 { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(36px, 4.6vw, 64px); line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -.05em; }
.why p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 20px; }
.chapters { max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 24px var(--gut) 120px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(300px, 1fr)); gap: 28px; }
.story .chapters { padding: 0; margin: 0; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(240px, 1fr)); }
.chap { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 12px; text-decoration: none; }
.chap .ph { --cap: 100%; --ar: 99; padding-bottom: 12px; transition: transform .4s var(--ease); }
.chap .ph img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; object-fit: cover; }
.chap:hover .ph { transform: rotate(-1deg) translateY(-4px); }
.chap h3 { font-weight: 600; font-size: 30px; line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -.045em; }
.chap:hover h3 { color: var(--orange); }
.chap p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.5; }
.chap .mono { color: var(--orange); }
.chap.soon { opacity: .55; pointer-events: none; }
.chap.soon .mono::after { content: " · coming soon"; color: var(--muted); }
.sec-hd { max-width: 1400px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gut); display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 16px; }
.sec-hd h2 { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(36px, 4.6vw, 64px); letter-spacing: -.05em; }

/* elevation profile (Ararat) */
.profile { max-width: 620px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 10px; padding: 22px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); }
.profile svg { width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; overflow: visible; }
.profile .grid { stroke: var(--line); }
.profile .summit { stroke: var(--ink); stroke-dasharray: 3 5; }
.profile .fill { fill: rgba(255, 90, 31, .1); }
.profile .line { fill: none; stroke: var(--orange); stroke-width: 2.5; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.profile circle { fill: var(--orange); stroke: var(--paper); stroke-width: 2; }
.profile text { font: 500 12px var(--mono); fill: var(--muted); }
.profile text.k { fill: var(--ink); }
.profile figcaption { color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- illustrations: hand-drawn SVG with small looping motion ---------- */
.illus { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); padding: clamp(18px, 3vw, 32px); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px; }
.dark .illus { background: var(--ink-2); border-color: var(--d-line); }
.illus svg { width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; overflow: visible; }
.illus figcaption { color: var(--muted); }
.illus .ink { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 2; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.illus .ink-f { fill: var(--ink); }
.illus .soft { fill: var(--cream-2); }
.illus .or { fill: var(--orange); }
.illus .or-s { fill: none; stroke: var(--orange); stroke-width: 2; stroke-linecap: round; }
.illus .wat { fill: #9DB7C4; opacity: .55; }
.illus .wat2 { fill: #7FA2B3; opacity: .45; }
.illus text { font: 500 12px var(--mono); fill: var(--ink); letter-spacing: .02em; }
.illus text.m { fill: var(--muted); }
.dark .illus text { fill: #fff; }
.dark .illus text.m { fill: var(--d-muted); }
.dark .illus .ink { stroke: #fff; }
@keyframes wave { to { transform: translateX(-120px); } }
@keyframes bob { 50% { transform: translateY(3px); } }
@keyframes drip { 0% { transform: translateY(0); opacity: 0; } 15% { opacity: 1; } 100% { transform: translateY(46px); opacity: 0; } }
@keyframes flick { 0%, 100% { transform: scaleY(1) scaleX(1); opacity: .95; } 30% { transform: scaleY(1.18) scaleX(.9); opacity: 1; } 60% { transform: scaleY(.86) scaleX(1.08); opacity: .8; } }
.illus .wave { animation: wave 4s linear infinite; }
.illus .wave.slow { animation-duration: 6.5s; }
.illus .bob { animation: bob 2.6s ease-in-out infinite; }
.illus .drop { animation: drip 1.8s ease-in infinite; }
.illus .drop:nth-of-type(2) { animation-delay: .6s; }
.illus .drop:nth-of-type(3) { animation-delay: 1.2s; }
.illus .flame { transform-box: fill-box; transform-origin: 50% 100%; animation: flick 1.3s ease-in-out infinite; }
.illus .flame:nth-of-type(2n) { animation-duration: 1.7s; animation-delay: -.4s; }
.illus .flame:nth-of-type(3n) { animation-duration: 1.1s; animation-delay: -.8s; }

/* weight bar (the pack) */
.wbar { display: flex; height: 64px; border-radius: 14px; overflow: hidden; background: var(--d-line); }
.wbar > div { display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: center; padding: 0 14px; min-width: 0; white-space: nowrap; overflow: hidden; font: 500 12px var(--mono); text-transform: uppercase; flex: 0 0 0; transition: flex-basis 1.4s var(--ease); }
.wbar > div b { font: 600 20px var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.03em; text-transform: none; }
.in .wbar > div, .wbar.in > div { flex-basis: var(--w); }
.wbar .w-rest { background: #2C2C2C; color: #fff; }
.wbar .w-food { background: var(--orange); color: #fff; transition-delay: .15s; }
.wbar .w-water { background: #7FA2B3; color: #fff; transition-delay: .3s; }

/* nights strip: where I slept */
.nights { grid-column: 1 / -1; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(170px, 1fr)); gap: 10px; }
.nights div { background: var(--ink-2); border: 1px solid var(--d-line); border-radius: 18px; padding: 18px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 6px; }
.nights .mono { color: var(--orange); }
.nights b { font: 600 20px/1.15 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.03em; }
.nights span:last-child { color: var(--d-muted); font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.45; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { .illus * { animation: none !important; } .wbar > div { transition: none; } }

/* reveal */
.js .rv { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(24px); transition: opacity .9s var(--ease), transform .9s var(--ease); }
.js .rv.in { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
.js .ph.rv.tilt-l.in { transform: rotate(-1.4deg); }
.js .ph.rv.tilt-r.in { transform: rotate(1.2deg); }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  .js .rv { opacity: 1; transform: none; transition: none; }
  .scene { height: auto; }
  .scene-stick { position: relative; }
}
.dark .wbar { grid-column: 1 / -1; }

/* ---------- readers + "I loved this story" (abacus counters, same service as the main site) ---------- */
.readers { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin-top: 28px; }
.readers[hidden] { display: none; }
.readers span { padding: 9px 14px; border-radius: 999px; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); border: 1px solid var(--d-line); color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .78); }
.readers b { color: #fff; font-weight: 500; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.love { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; gap: 16px; }
.love-q, .love-sub { color: var(--muted); }
.love-sub b, .love-sub span { color: var(--ink); font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.love-btn { position: relative; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 18px; padding: 12px 28px 12px 12px; border: 0; border-radius: 999px; cursor: pointer; font: inherit; color: #fff; text-align: left; background: var(--ink); box-shadow: 0 18px 40px -18px rgba(0, 0, 0, .55); transition: transform .25s var(--ease), background .3s; }
.love-btn:hover { transform: translateY(-3px); }
.love-btn:active .love-key, .love-btn.is-on .love-key { transform: translateY(calc(var(--k) * .07)); box-shadow: 0 calc(var(--k) * .02) 0 var(--ks), 0 calc(var(--k) * .08) calc(var(--k) * .14) rgba(0, 0, 0, .42); }
.love-key { --k: 64px; }
.love-key > span { font: 400 30px/1 var(--sans); }
.love-t { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 2px; }
.love-t b { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(20px, 2.4vw, 26px); letter-spacing: -.04em; }
.love-t small { font: 400 12px var(--mono); color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55); text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .04em; }
.love-n { margin-left: 10px; padding-left: 22px; border-left: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .16); font: 600 clamp(24px, 3vw, 34px)/1 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.04em; color: var(--orange); white-space: nowrap; }
.love-n b { font-weight: 600; color: #fff; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.love-btn.is-on { background: var(--orange-deep); cursor: default; }
.love-btn.is-on .love-n { color: #fff; border-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .3); }
.love-btn.is-on:hover { transform: none; }
.love-heart { position: absolute; left: 44px; top: 30px; font-size: 20px; color: var(--orange); pointer-events: none; animation: heart-fly 1.1s var(--ease) forwards; }
@keyframes heart-fly { 0% { opacity: 0; transform: translate(0, 0) scale(.4); } 15% { opacity: 1; } 100% { opacity: 0; transform: translate(var(--dx), -120px) scale(1.2) rotate(var(--r)); } }
@media (max-width: 560px) {
  .love-btn { gap: 12px; padding-right: 18px; }
  .love-key { --k: 50px; }
  .love-t small { display: none; }
  .love-n { padding-left: 14px; margin-left: 2px; }
}
.love-sub[hidden] { display: none; }

/* ---------- story home hero: "Turkey 2021" ---------- */
.epic { position: relative; margin-top: -64px; min-height: max(100vh, 720px); background: var(--ink); color: #fff; overflow: hidden; isolation: isolate; }
.epic-bg { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; }
.epic-bg canvas { width: 100%; height: 100%; display: block; }
.epic::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; pointer-events: none; background: linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(18, 18, 18, .92) 0%, rgba(18, 18, 18, .55) 38%, rgba(18, 18, 18, 0) 62%), linear-gradient(0deg, rgba(18, 18, 18, .9), rgba(18, 18, 18, 0) 30%); }
.epic-in { max-width: 1400px; min-height: inherit; margin: 0 auto; padding: 140px var(--gut) 100px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.15fr .85fr; align-items: center; gap: 40px; }
.epic .kicker .muted { color: var(--d-muted); }
.epic-title { font-weight: 600; font-size: clamp(76px, min(12.5vw, 19vh), 200px); line-height: .84; letter-spacing: -.065em; margin: 22px 0 30px; }
.epic-title em { display: block; font-style: normal; color: var(--orange); }
.epic-lede { font-size: clamp(21px, 2vw, 27px); line-height: 1.32; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: -.025em; max-width: 30ch; }
.epic-sub { margin-top: 16px; color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .62); max-width: 44ch; font-size: 17px; }
.epic-cta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 14px 20px; margin-top: 34px; }
.epic-cta .readers { margin: 0; }
.epic-go { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; height: 56px; padding: 0 26px; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--orange); color: #fff; font: 600 17px var(--sans); text-decoration: none; box-shadow: 0 16px 36px -14px rgba(255, 90, 31, .7); transition: transform .25s var(--ease), background .25s; }
.epic-go:hover { transform: translateY(-2px); background: var(--orange-deep); }
.epic-me { position: relative; justify-self: center; align-self: center; height: min(calc(100vh - 230px), 720px); aspect-ratio: 558 / 1602; }
.epic-me img { height: 100%; width: auto; filter: drop-shadow(0 30px 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, .55)); animation: me-in 1.2s var(--ease) both .15s; }
@keyframes me-in { from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(40px); } }
.tag { position: absolute; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0; font: 500 11px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .04em; text-transform: uppercase; white-space: nowrap; animation: me-in .9s var(--ease) both; }
.tag span { padding: 7px 11px; border-radius: 999px; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1); border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .2); backdrop-filter: blur(8px); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(8px); }
.tag::before { content: ""; width: 56px; height: 1px; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5); }
.tag::after { content: ""; position: absolute; width: 7px; height: 7px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--orange); }
.tag-pack { left: 74%; top: 6%; animation-delay: .9s; }
.tag-pack::after { left: -3px; }
.tag-poles { right: 62%; top: 25%; flex-direction: row-reverse; animation-delay: 1.1s; }
.tag-poles::after { right: -3px; }
.tag-shoes { right: 76%; top: 92%; flex-direction: row-reverse; animation-delay: 1.3s; }
.tag-shoes::after { right: -3px; }
.epic-scroll { display: none; position: absolute; left: 50%; bottom: 96px; transform: translateX(-50%); color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55); text-decoration: none; }
.epic-scroll:hover { color: #fff; }
@media (max-width: 900px) {
  .epic-in { grid-template-columns: 1fr; padding-top: 120px; padding-bottom: 0; }
  .epic::after { background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(18, 18, 18, .85) 0%, rgba(18, 18, 18, .4) 55%, rgba(18, 18, 18, .2) 100%); }
  .epic-me { height: min(58vh, 520px); margin-bottom: 70px; }
  .epic-bg { top: auto; height: 62vh; }
  .tag-poles { display: none; }
  .tag-pack { left: 70%; }
  .tag span { font-size: 10px; padding: 6px 9px; }
  .tag::before { width: 24px; }
  .epic-scroll { display: none; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { .epic-me img, .tag { animation: none; } }

/* the one sentence in "Why I wrote this" */
.why-quote { margin: 8px 0; padding: 28px 32px; border-radius: var(--r); background: var(--ink); color: #fff; position: relative; }
.why-quote::before { content: "“"; position: absolute; top: -18px; left: 22px; font: 600 88px/1 var(--sans); color: var(--orange); }
.why-quote p { color: #fff; font: 600 clamp(24px, 2.8vw, 36px)/1.12 var(--sans); letter-spacing: -.04em; }
.why .note { font-size: 32px; color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* ---------- diary page: my own notes from the trail ---------- */
.diary { --rule: 32px; position: relative; max-width: 640px; padding: 32px 34px 32px 64px; background-color: #FBF8F1; background-image: linear-gradient(90deg, transparent 46px, rgba(255, 90, 31, .35) 46px, rgba(255, 90, 31, .35) 47px, transparent 47px), repeating-linear-gradient(180deg, transparent 0 calc(var(--rule) - 1px), rgba(18, 18, 18, .08) calc(var(--rule) - 1px) var(--rule)); background-position: 0 0, 0 0; border-radius: 6px; box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, .08), 0 24px 44px -26px rgba(0, 0, 0, .45); transform: rotate(-.5deg); }
.js .diary.rv.in { transform: rotate(-.5deg); }
.diary::before, .diary::after { content: ""; position: absolute; top: -12px; width: 110px; height: 26px; background: rgba(255, 210, 140, .55); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, .06); }
.diary::before { left: 30px; transform: rotate(-4deg); }
.diary::after { right: 30px; transform: rotate(5deg); }
.diary-hd { display: flex; flex-direction: column; margin-bottom: var(--rule); } /* every line sits on a rule: all heights are multiples of --rule */
.diary-day { font: 400 52px/calc(var(--rule) * 2) var(--hand); color: var(--orange-deep); }
.diary-hd .mono { line-height: var(--rule); }
.diary-hd .mono { color: var(--muted); }
.diary p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 17px; line-height: var(--rule); }
.diary p + p { margin-top: var(--rule); }
.diary .diary-aside { font: 400 27px/var(--rule) var(--hand); color: var(--orange-deep); transform: rotate(-1.5deg); padding-left: 18px; }
@media (max-width: 560px) { .diary { padding: 32px 18px 32px 34px; background-image: linear-gradient(90deg, transparent 22px, rgba(255, 90, 31, .35) 22px, rgba(255, 90, 31, .35) 23px, transparent 23px), repeating-linear-gradient(180deg, transparent 0 calc(var(--rule) - 1px), rgba(18, 18, 18, .08) calc(var(--rule) - 1px) var(--rule)); } .diary p { font-size: 16px; } .diary-day { font-size: 44px; } }

/* ---------- top-right: language switch + "All chapters" ---------- */
.bar-r { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; }
.lang { display: flex; height: 52px; padding: 5px; border-radius: 999px; background: rgba(16, 16, 19, .78); border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .12); backdrop-filter: blur(20px) saturate(1.5); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(20px) saturate(1.5); box-shadow: 0 16px 44px rgba(0, 0, 0, .28); }
.lang a { display: grid; place-items: center; min-width: 44px; padding: 0 12px; border-radius: 999px; font: 500 13px var(--mono); letter-spacing: .04em; color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .62); text-decoration: none; transition: background .2s, color .2s; }
.lang a:hover { color: #fff; }
.lang a[aria-current] { background: #fff; color: var(--ink); }
@media (max-width: 760px) { .lang { height: 46px; padding: 4px; } .lang a { min-width: 38px; padding: 0 9px; font-size: 12px; } .bar-r { gap: 6px; } }
/* "Туреччина" is twice as long as "Turkey": smaller so it stays left of the mountain */
:lang(uk) .epic-title { font-size: clamp(60px, min(8.6vw, 17vh), 150px); }